Guidebook for San Francisco
Food Scene
A 17th arrondissement all-organic farmers’ market with a slightly hippy, non-snooty vibe. Every Saturday, the growers bring in their super-fresh, quirky produce—like unusual varieties of winter squash you wouldn’t find at ordinary food stalls, or carrots in all colors of the rainbow. It’s not very big, but the variety and quality are amazing.
My favorite produce stall is the last one on the right when you go toward Place de Clichy. The stuff that comes from their own farm is marked “A nous,” and their cut flowers are wonderful. I love the tiny goat cheese stall, too!
131 lokale inwoners raden aan
Marche biologique des Batignolles
34 Bd des BatignollesA 17th arrondissement all-organic farmers’ market with a slightly hippy, non-snooty vibe. Every Saturday, the growers bring in their super-fresh, quirky produce—like unusual varieties of winter squash you wouldn’t find at ordinary food stalls, or carrots in all colors of the rainbow. It’s not very big, but the variety and quality are amazing.
My favorite produce stall is the last one on the right when you go toward Place de Clichy. The stuff that comes from their own farm is marked “A nous,” and their cut flowers are wonderful. I love the tiny goat cheese stall, too!
Technically a covered hall—as close to a food court as you’ll get in Paris!—this charming food market in the hip North Marais neighborhood has lots of prepared food. The crêpe stand is lovely, as is the Japanese bento stall.
Aim to go around lunchtime, pick out your food, and sit down to eat at one of the tables scattered around the market.
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Marche des Enfants Rouges
39 Rue de BretagneTechnically a covered hall—as close to a food court as you’ll get in Paris!—this charming food market in the hip North Marais neighborhood has lots of prepared food. The crêpe stand is lovely, as is the Japanese bento stall.
Aim to go around lunchtime, pick out your food, and sit down to eat at one of the tables scattered around the market.
A working-class 12th arrondissement greenmarket with good prices on mostly conventional—not organic—produce and a fun, bustling atmosphere. Right by the open-air market is the Marché Beauvau, a covered hall that has more upscale vendors.
Next to the market you’ll find the Japanese Knife Company, where you can bring your knives for professional sharpening.
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Aligre Market
Place d'AligreA working-class 12th arrondissement greenmarket with good prices on mostly conventional—not organic—produce and a fun, bustling atmosphere. Right by the open-air market is the Marché Beauvau, a covered hall that has more upscale vendors.
Next to the market you’ll find the Japanese Knife Company, where you can bring your knives for professional sharpening.
I go to this market in a primarily North African neighborhood for crazy deals like three bunches of herbs for €1. You have to brace yourself for the hustle and bustle—it has crazy crowded aisles—but it’s really fun. The produce is a mix of Western and non-Western. Open Wednesday and Saturday mornings until 1 pm.
On your left-hand side as you walk away from the Barbès metro station, there’s a stall that sells olives, spices, and excellent house-made harissa. You even have a choice between Moroccan and Tunisian style. I like both, so I ask whoever’s serving me where he’s from and choose that one.
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Marché Barbès
60 Bd de la ChapelleI go to this market in a primarily North African neighborhood for crazy deals like three bunches of herbs for €1. You have to brace yourself for the hustle and bustle—it has crazy crowded aisles—but it’s really fun. The produce is a mix of Western and non-Western. Open Wednesday and Saturday mornings until 1 pm.
On your left-hand side as you walk away from the Barbès metro station, there’s a stall that sells olives, spices, and excellent house-made harissa. You even have a choice between Moroccan and Tunisian style. I like both, so I ask whoever’s serving me where he’s from and choose that one.
One of the few greenmarkets in Paris, this one—set at the foot of the Montmartre hill—runs on Fridays from late afternoon into the evening. It has a small but good selection of vendors selling everything from colorful produce to meat, cheese, bread, and prepared foods.
Pick up the amazing Saint-Nectaire cheese from the stall that sells products from Auvergne.
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Marche Anvers
Place d'AnversOne of the few greenmarkets in Paris, this one—set at the foot of the Montmartre hill—runs on Fridays from late afternoon into the evening. It has a small but good selection of vendors selling everything from colorful produce to meat, cheese, bread, and prepared foods.
Pick up the amazing Saint-Nectaire cheese from the stall that sells products from Auvergne.
If you’re on the Left Bank, this all-organic Tuesday/Friday/Sunday farmers’ market is the second-best option to the Marché Bio des Batignolles. It’s frequented by the French celebrities who live in the neighborhood.
It has some of the same vendors as the Marché Bio des Batignolles, but be aware that here they tend to hike up their prices for the wealthier clientele.
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Marché biologique Raspail
73 Bd RaspailIf you’re on the Left Bank, this all-organic Tuesday/Friday/Sunday farmers’ market is the second-best option to the Marché Bio des Batignolles. It’s frequented by the French celebrities who live in the neighborhood.
It has some of the same vendors as the Marché Bio des Batignolles, but be aware that here they tend to hike up their prices for the wealthier clientele.
Essentials
This is a classic, iconic greenmarket that runs Wednesdays and Saturdays from around 7 am to 3 pm. Check out Joël Thiébault’s stand. He’s a celebrity farmer who sells all sorts of rare herbs and vegetables you don’t find anywhere else, like pineapple mint, mizuna salad leaves, candy cane beets…the kind of stuff that inspires chefs.
If you hang around Thiébault’s stall, you’ll spot VIPs from the Paris food scene—chefs, stylists, photographers, journalists—who come to stock up for their restaurants, recipe testings, or photo shoots.
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Marche President Wilson
11 Av. du Président WilsonThis is a classic, iconic greenmarket that runs Wednesdays and Saturdays from around 7 am to 3 pm. Check out Joël Thiébault’s stand. He’s a celebrity farmer who sells all sorts of rare herbs and vegetables you don’t find anywhere else, like pineapple mint, mizuna salad leaves, candy cane beets…the kind of stuff that inspires chefs.
If you hang around Thiébault’s stall, you’ll spot VIPs from the Paris food scene—chefs, stylists, photographers, journalists—who come to stock up for their restaurants, recipe testings, or photo shoots.
Shopping
It’s a magical and photogenic place along the river Seine to take a stroll and shop for flowers, plants, and seeds, including herbs to grow on your windowsill. Though the flowers will be clamoring for your attention, take a moment to admire the pavilions from 1900 that house the stalls.
If you’re interested in caged birds, go on a Sunday when the Marché aux Oiseaux is in operation.
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Marche aux Fleurs et aux Oiseaux
Allée Célestin HennionIt’s a magical and photogenic place along the river Seine to take a stroll and shop for flowers, plants, and seeds, including herbs to grow on your windowsill. Though the flowers will be clamoring for your attention, take a moment to admire the pavilions from 1900 that house the stalls.
If you’re interested in caged birds, go on a Sunday when the Marché aux Oiseaux is in operation.